Bahia Espiritu Santo, Mexico's Remote Caribbean Coast

Bahia Espiritu Santo is a large shallow bay on the SE corner of the Yucatan Peninsula. It is a biosphere reserve and very isolated. The only paved road runs many miles inland from the beach and only a very rough dirt road connects to Punta Allen in Bahia Asuncion, 30 miles north. However no roads come into Espiritu Santo. A few Mayans live along its shores as their ancestors did growing corn and beans and catching fish.
The opening to the reef is 1.5 miles wide. You can spot the light house on Punta Herrero on the southerly side of the bay. The existing DMA chart 28190 and the C-Map charts we used on our Furuno Navnet were totally inadequate in scale and detail. The land is placed properly; we did a chart overlay with our radar and could see that. But the soundings and reefs are wrong both here and at Chinchorro banks. If you came in using those charts you’d hit the reef, missing the entrance completely. We used Freya Rauscher’s charts to “Belize and Mexico’s Caribbean Coast” and found them accurate enough. On entry we had two navigation programs to go by. This was a great help, but you have to be very cautious and go by “eyeball” navigation through the reefs and coral heads by reading the color of the water. This is true almost anywhere in the Carribean.
We came in as described by FR from her waypoint on a heading of 265T lined up on Owen Point light on the north end of Isla Owen. If you draw 6’ or less you can go to anchor on the west side of Isla Owen. Once inside the depths began to shoal and we turned north to anchor behind the reef. We turned north because a norther was predicted and this would offer the best protection.
We motored slowly north about 3 miles and anchored at 19 25.9’N, 87 27.9W in 10’ of water over hard sand between small widely spaced small coral patches. We had a hard time getting the anchor to set. I dove to check the anchor amidst fantastic coral and brightly colored fish that were very curious. The anchor had not set and I could see that it was sand over hard pan. Back on board we very carefully backed on our 100’ of chain and the anchor eventually grabbed.
At sunset at norther blew through with winds gusting to 37 knots from the NW. We dragged a short distance and our CQR grabbed again, I imagine on a coral head. We veered out another 50 feet of our ½” chain before dark just for good measure. The wind blew all night and it was chilly on the boat.
Next day, the wind calmed down but still NW. That morning we responded to a Mayday Call from a 30’ catamaran, “Ally’s Cat”, that hit the reef and sank 7 miles outside of us. We aided in their rescue and the Mexican Navy showed up later and took them on board their vessel.
In the late afternoon we made some soundings with the dinghy but it was too rough to take the computer along so we did it manually. We were anchored .9 of a mile off shore where there was a group of about three huts. We headed toward them and people were standing on the beach trying to direct us through the grassy shallows but we didn’t attempt to land. We shouted to them what all the commotion was about with the search and rescue boat and helicopter.
After two nights in Espiritu we departed for Chinchorro Banks.

Cozumel, Mexico by Yacht

We made the easy 50 mile run to Cozumel. Knowing the crowded nature of the only public marina in town, we decided to anchor off the town pier. This anchorage is protected from NE to SE winds, the normal direction here. We had been having an unusual number of northers, so we’d have to watch for that. We anchored about .3 of a mile north of the main commercial pier directly in front of the clearly marked Port Captain’s office in about 20’ of water over sand, with some grass. This is far enough from the busy ferry dock that it’s out of the way, though an occasional wake would cause us to roll.
The first night was comfortable enough, but the wind piped up from the SE and gusty next day blowing across a strong NE current. At times we’d ride to the current at others to the winds and sometimes crosswise. We put out our flopper stopper. This helped but it wasn’t as effective as usual because the current pushed the vanes farther aft and at shallower depth.
We wanted to get ashore, but we were reluctant to launch and use the dinghy in these choppy conditions. We managed to flag down one of the many small tourist launches passing by. They put us off at the town pier. Immediately some unfriendly API (Integrated Port Authority) guards made sure we paid a landing fee. Ok fine.
We went first to the marina that used to be called Club Nautico. It had been taken over by API and was very run down and packed. The docking method here is to med moor to a concrete pier. However it is now only used by local tourist boats. The fuel dock had been moved into the far corner of the marina and you have to pass the hose over other boats. Marina Manager, Sr. Novelo said to always call in advance to make a reservation for fuel, so they can move boats around and make room for you. His APIQROO card: 987-869-7678 tel / fax. Email: jnovelo@apiqroo.com.mx cell phone: 987-111-9274.

Fonatur says it’s building a new marina in a natural harbor called Caleta three miles south of the town pier. It was Sunday and we couldn’t get past the construction fence, but we could see they have a long way to go to completion. We did see signs warning of crocodiles in the same lagoon. To avoid crowding and crocodiles anchoring out is about the best option now. We saw only one other cruising boat on the island in our 3 days there.
A new API ferry pier is being built at the south end of town, and next door to the south is Meridiano 87, a new haul-out yard and work yard. The manager Helman E. Can Solis said the yard will be open in 2 months. For right now the big navy blue Fed ship type boat up in the 100 Ton Travelift under the shed belongs to the owner of the company. Helman said the yard would open to the public in about 3 two months, as soon as the API pier next door got finished. For the first year, they will haul and do repairs, and not be just as a dry storage yard or marina seca. Plans call for larger yard for dry storage.
Back on the boat that afternoon the wind dropped and a huge thunderhead built up over the mainland 10 miles away. It crossed the channel and we suddenly had a huge black squall with strong rain and lightening. The wind gusted to 40 knots and we started to drag anchor. We went out on deck and the wind was blowing the rain so hard that it hurt the exposed face. We paid out 50’ more of chain and held. An hour later it was calm again. It was very strange event for dry season in Mexico.
The next day we had to clear out of Mexico with a Zarpe for Belize at Cozumel, because we’re too deep to get into Xcalac or Majahual, the last possible stops in Mexico. We started at the Port Captain’s office, the middle of 3 Port buildings in front of the main yacht anchorage. We used a crew list for port clearance form from “Cruising Ports”. On it included intermediate stops of Bahia Espiritu Santo and Chinchorro Bank, so we wouldn’t have problems if our papers were checked by Navy on our way out but before we were into Belize. We also had to fill out the port captain’s own form, which had much information redundant to our port clearance form. They also asked for a copy of the document and insurance papers. Then we had to go to the bank to pay the port fees and get a receipt to take back the port captain (about US 22.50 for our 60 ton boat.) Next stop was Immigration (15 avenue con calle 5) corner of 15th Ave at 5th Street, about 18 blocks south and 5 blocks inland behind San Miguel. They stamped our crew list. But he said we’d have to come back with a copy of our Zarpe from the Port Captain before he’d stamp our passports for exit. So back to the Port Captain, present our receipts and properly stamped crew list, and receive our “Zarpe.” Then back to Immigration to give them our Zarpe which they copied in house and gave us back the original and stamped our passport and kept our tourist cards. We did it, kept the taxi 2 hrs! Good guy, #577. Now we’re cleared out of Mexico for Belize with stops.
We’d come ashore again by flagging down a tourist launch. To go back out we tried a short pier just south of the main commercial pier. This was a non API pier, nobody collected funds and a friendly launch driver took us out for a tip. We didn’t see anywhere to land and leave a dinghy. You might be able to work a deal at this dock.
As many as 7 cruise ships stop here daily. So the small town is a zoo when they are in. Sunday’s and Mondays are the lightest traffic days. We departed southward that night for the solitude of Espiritu Santo Bay.

Cancun Official Entry by Yacht

Because we came direct from the U.S. we had to make our official entrance into Mexico at Marina La Amada just north of Cancun. Dockmaster Miguel Angel is authorized by the Puerto Juarez Port Captain to serve as a port agent. He asked to see our U.S. port clearance. I explained that we had none, because a U.S. flagged yacht cannot get one, only commercial vessels, furthermore this clearance is not required when entering on the Pacific side of Mexico. He said that this is no longer true, and showed me the U.S. CBP Form 1300 that another US yacht had presented and that all the Port Captains on this side of Mexico are requiring one. He asked to see what paperwork we did have. We had brought with us a standard crew list in Spanish they we had used for years. Miguel said he’d use this and also typed up a flowery letter in Spanish to the Port Captain explaining why we didn’t have a Zarpe from the US. We also gave Miguel a copy of our ship’s document, Mexican insurance, and Temporary Import Permit (which we had onboard from a trip 4 years ago and is valid for 10 years). All of this paper work was accepted and several other dock masters we talked to verified that the U.S. port clearance was required. When we get back to the U.S. we will contact U.S. Customs and verify that you really can get one now.

Now Miguel called the necessary officials to come down to our boat for inspection. The first official to arrive was from Sanidad, to inspect the food items we brought in. We had not done a big provisioning in Florida, knowing that certain meats and vegetables were not permitted, and knowing that we could provision in very good stores in Cancun. We had a few prohibited items like apples and citrus, but he allowed us to keep them if we promised to consume them on board and dump the leavings at sea when we left. We only had one package of meat which was sliced deli ham and turkey. They are not on the prohibited list, but he said that U.S. beef and chicken are not allowed into Mexico at this time.

Next was Immigration. They came on board with tourist cards for us to fill out, and they stamped them and our passports. Miguel gave us a special form to take to any bank to pay the fee. If you don’t do this, when you go to leave the country you would have a problem, so we went to the bank the next day. We paid the approximately $20 each and were given a receipt, which was important to keep with the tourist card to prove it was valid.

Customs was next on board. She asked one question, “Do you have any guns.” We honestly answered no. She said ok, you are cleared. We asked if she’d like to see the rest of the boat, and she said no. We knew that it’s illegal for any yacht to have arms on board in Mexico and it is strictly enforced. Dock master Luis Roberto of Hacienda del Mar marina regaled us with stories of American yatistas being thrown into the Cancun jail over guns on board. Nuff said.

Finally the port captain’s representative came down. He collected our papers from Miguel and didn’t come on board, but told us we could now lower our yellow quarantine flag.

Later Miguel gave us our papers back, including the crew list which was properly stamped by all of the authorities and proof that we’d properly cleared into the country. Now we were free to come and go in Mexican ports, and all we’d have to do was call the port captain on VHF and announce our arrivals and departures. They usually ask in return: the name of the boat, name of the captain and number of persons on board. When we leave the country we will have to visit the Port Captain, Immigration, and Customs with an exit Crew List to receive a properly executed “Zarpe,” (international exit clearance)

Arriving in Cancun by Yacht

We arrived at La Amada marina at Cancun which is a separate interior basin located about 5 miles northwest of the mega-tourist area. You can carry 17’ draft into the channel (lined in giant concrete jacks) and turning basin which has alongside berths for megayachts on both sides. The two docking areas north and south of the turning basin have 10 foot depth. The marina is brand new and is owned by Spanish investors and you can certainly see the Mediterranean influence. The docks are high, non-floating concrete with partial fingers of about 20’ coming out to separate the berths. The concrete pilings have a small amount of vertical fendering, but unlike Florida marinas, this has no wooden pilings to secure lines to. Like in the Med, a tag line running alongside the hull connects to a chain running on the bottom to the dock. Dockmaster Miguel Angel said the bottom of each section of 5 or 6 boat slips contains a “mother” chain on the bottom, and individual “sister” chains branch off that.
The docking procedure is to back into the slip, and one or two of their uniformed marina staffers passes you the tag line, you walk the line to your bow and secure it. Meanwhile your deckhands are securing the stern to the dock. Brest and spring lines are secured to bollards on the short finger pier. Put the line’s eye on the bollard and adjust lines on your boat’s cleats. You can best disembark if you have a passarelle as many European boats do, or jury rig a stern plank.
The fuel dock and marina office are on an island-like pier just to the south of the marina entrance channel and adjacent to the turning basin. We lucked out because the dock master put us on the south side of the concrete island which constitutes the fuel dock and office and we therefore had an alongside berth. This enabled us to step off onto the dock from the pilot house boarding gate without having a plank. The 50-amp 220-volt service used U.S. style connections and was more than adequate and the dock security excellent.